Climbing Humphreys Peak, Arizona’s highest mountain
Rising 12,633 feet above sea level, Humphreys Peak is the highest point in Arizona and a rewarding destination for avid hikers and climbers.
As the snow-capped crown of the San Francisco Peaks, Humphreys Peak offers an adventure filled with stunning vistas, diverse ecosystems, and a sense of accomplishment that only an alpine summit can provide. It’s also one of the easiest to climb of the 11 western U.S. high points.
I climbed Humphreys Peak in early December 2023 after several small storms had blanketed the mountain with 6 to 12 inches of snow. It wasn’t enough snow to ski or snowshoe but added to the difficulty. That said, I think Humphreys Peak has earned a deserved reputation as a western state high point that can be climbed year-round. (More on this later.)
Humphreys Peak geography and geology
Humphreys Peak from the east at sunset.
Humphreys Peak is part of the San Francisco Peaks, a volcanic mountain range north of Flagstaff, Arizona. Nestled in the midst of the Coconino National Forest, The San Francisco Peaks are the remnants of an ancient stratovolcano, with Humphreys being the highest and most prominent of them.
The mountain’s distinctive cone-shaped profile dominates the surrounding landscape, creating a striking contrast against the red-rock deserts of the Colorado Plateau, which encompasses the San Francisco Peaks.
It’s only a few hours drive from the red-rock deserts of the Grand Canyon and Lake Powell to the north, and it’s only about 150 miles from Phoenix and the Sonoran Desert to the south.
Climbing Humphreys Peak via Humphreys Peak Trail
The most popular route to the Humphreys Peak summit is the 4.5-mile Humphreys Peak Trail, which climbs 3,300 feet and starts at the Arizona Snowbowl ski area at about 9,300 feet. The trail quickly leaves the ski area and ascends via a series of well-maintained switchbacks along the ski area’s north border.
The trail can be broken into two basic sections:
The tree-covered lower mountain to the saddle between Humphries and Agassiz peaks.
The more exposed push from the saddle to the Humphreys Peak summit.
Trailhead to saddle (3.8 miles and 2,500 feet): The trail starts by crossing the lower slopes of the Arizona Snowbowl ski area and enters the woods to the north. It winds through dense forests of Engelmann spruce and mixed conifers, which will provide welcome shade during summer months.
The lower trail climbs moderately via six or seven long switchbacks and gets gradually steeper as it gets closer to the saddle where the timber also begins to thin. The trail is rocky in sections, but for the most part consists of a well-worn and even walking surface.
The saddle offers a relatively flat surface and big views to the east and west. It’s also a natural resting point and a place to refuel before tackling the more rocky and exposed sections of trail to the summit.
The terrain is exposed from the saddle to the Humphreys Peak summit.
Saddle to summit (1 mile and 800 feet): Beyond the saddle, the trail becomes steeper and rockier, requiring a bit of scrambling over loose volcanic scree. Caution is warranted, especially during inclement weather or when navigating the trail in late fall or early spring when snow and ice may present additional challenges.
I was well prepared with multiple pairs of gloves, hats, gaiters, and a wind shell, but 50 mile per hour winds hammered the mountain on the day of my climb, and snow blew into knee-deep drifts that significantly slowed my progress once I was above tree line.
The Southwest’s summer monsoon season also poses significant hazard above the saddle, as there is nowhere to hide from wind, lightning, or suddenly plummeting temperatures.
The final push to the peak also includes two false summits, so pace yourself as you go.
Upon reaching the summit, you’ll be rewarded with a 360-degree view that encompasses the entire region. To the south, the city of Flagstaff sprawls across the valley floor, while to the north, the Painted Desert extends towards the horizon. The Grand Canyon is visible to the northwest, and the sharp peaks of nearby mountains pierce the sky.
It’s a truly inspiring view.
Summit to the trailhead (4.8 miles and 3,300 feet back down): There’s a saying in mountaineering that the summit is optional, but the descent is not. Remember to save energy, food, and water for the return trip to the trailhead. There’s nothing particularly difficult about the descent from Humphreys Peak, but it’ll take a toll on your knees and hips. Trekking poles will help.
How challenging is the climb up Humphreys Peak?
Climbing Humphries Peak is a physical challenge, but the route is well signed, and getting lost is improbable.
The degree of challenge you’ll face on Humphreys Peak depends on your level of fitness and amount of experience you’ve accumulated in the mountains. For many, the hike up the standard route will require a good dose of physical stamina and mental determination and require six to eight hours of fairly grueling hiking. For world-class trail runners who attempt Humphreys Peak in good weather, it may constitute a roughly three-hour endurance test.
I climbed Humphreys Peak on snowy trails less than a week after competing in an Ironman triathlon, so I was pretty fit at the time. I climbed and descended in a little less than five hours.
The mountain isn’t technical unless you’re hiking in the snow, in which case, microspikes, skis, or snowshoes may be required.
For those attempting to summit when there’s an established winter snowpack, Humphreys Peak can be climbed without venturing too far into avalanche terrain. However, the climb up the summit ridge crosses several bowls where evidence of past avalanches is clear. Contact the Kachina Peaks Avalanche Center for up-to-date forecasts and tips about winter route finding.
Hazards to consider when climbing Humphreys Peak
The San Francisco Peaks are a high elevation range, and altitude sickness is among the hazards.
Climbing Humphreys Peak is a relatively straightforward endeavor, but climbers should consider several obvious hazards before embarking and prepare accordingly. At any time of year, climbers should carry ample food and water, multiple layers, a good hat, emergency supplies, and wear solid footwear.
During colder seasons, climbers might also consider taking snow pants, a parka, gaiters, ski goggles, snowshoes, microspikes, skis, poles, or other gear.
The most obvious hazards climbers may encounter on Humphreys Peak include:
Thunderstorms: Most people will climb Humphreys Peak in the summer when severe afternoon thunderstorms are common. Check a reputable weather forecast, leave early in the morning, and plan to be back at your car by noon. Also be prepared to turn around if ominous clouds build. Weather can and does shift rapidly in the mountains.
Altitude: One of the unique challenges of climbing Humphreys Peak is the rapid elevation gain. At 12,633 feet, it’s not as hazardous as other high points in the West, but it can pose problems, especially if you’re not accustomed to exerting at higher elevations. Climbers should acclimate to avoid altitude sickness, which is characterized by headaches, nausea, and dizziness. Drink lots of water and go slow, and you should be okay.
Rockfall: The climb up the standard route on Humphreys Peak isn’t very steep by mountaineering standards, but rockfall is always a hazard in the mountains. You probably don’t need a helmet for this one, but stay alert, especially if there are climbers above you.
Avalanches: If you’re climbing Humphreys Peak in late fall, winter, or early spring when there’s an established winter snowpack, you should know how to evaluate the snowpack for avalanche hazard and go with a group that knows how to travel responsibly and respond to an incident should one occur. Most of the standard climb skirts serious avalanche terrain, but there are pockets that pose a hazard.
Injuries: As with trips to all mountains, the single most obvious hazard on Humphries Peak is probably posed by the numerous small rocks you’ll walk on or over. It would be easy to trip, fall, or sprain an ankle or knee on Humphries Peak, and your group should be prepared to step with purpose and deal with an accident if misfortune strikes.
Where’s the Humphreys Peak trailhead?
Most trips to climb Humphreys Peak start in Flagstaff, the nearest city. From Flagstaff, head north on U.S. Route 180 for approximately 7 miles until you reach the turn to the Arizona Snowbowl ski area. Go 6 more miles to the ski area base, which marks the starting point of the Humphreys Peak Trail. The trailhead is well-signed, guiding hikers to a parking area where they can prepare for the climb.
Seasonal considerations for climbing Humphreys Peak
Cold and wind were real hazards for my climb. Having enough layers was crucial to succeeding. The view behind me is to the southwest.
Humphreys Peak is accessible year-round, but conditions vary significantly with the seasons. Summer offers the most straightforward ascent, with clear trails and minimal snow. Autumn paints the landscape in vibrant hues, providing a picturesque backdrop for the climb.
Winter transforms Humphreys Peak into a snow-covered wonderland. While this adds a layer of challenge for those experienced at traveling in snow-covered mountains, it also creates a magical atmosphere, especially for those who enjoy snowshoeing or backcountry skiing.
Spring can be unpredictable, with lingering snow and rapidly changing weather that could require additional preparations.
As noted above, I climbed Humphreys Peak in early December with 6 to 12 inches of snow on the ground during a very windy day, with gusts blowing 50 miles per hour or more. The snow was too thin to ski or snowshoe, but high on the mountain it had drifted several feet deep in places.
Stiff-soled Gore-Tex boots, wind-proof mountaineering pants, gaiters, multiple hats and gloves, and trekking poles were all imperative to my successful summit that day. Before leaving the parking lot I’d actually considered wearing trail running shoes. If I had, I wouldn’t have made it very far.
My point is this: Before embarking on a Humphries Peak climb or any outdoor adventure, do your research. Check current conditions and weather forecasts, and prepare accordingly.
Conservation and stewardship
The lower switchbacks on the Humphreys Peak Trail meander through a pine-scented forest.
While Humphreys Peak provides a memorable outdoor experience, the mountain should be approached with a mindset of stewardship, both for the fragile alpine ecosystem and for the mountain’s cultural significance. The San Francisco Peaks are sacred to several Native American tribes, including the Hopi, Navajo and Havasupai.
The Hopi, in particular, consider the range one of the most sacred places. According to Hopi cosmology, the San Francisco Peaks are a place of instruction and guidance.
The Hopi believe that the Katsinam, spirits who live in the peaks, provide teachings to the Hopi people and impart wisdom about sustainable living, ethical behavior, and the interconnectedness of all living things.
The peaks are not only a physical landmark but a source of spiritual education and cultural guidance that places an emphasis, above most all else, on sustainability. Climbers should stay on designated trails, pack out all waste, and adhere to Leave No Trace principles.
Humphreys showcases Arizona’s natural beauty
Climbing Humphreys Peak is a remarkable adventure that showcases the diversity of Arizona's natural beauty. From the pine forests at the trailhead to the alpine tundra near the summit, the journey is a testament to the resilience of life in harsh environments.
While Humphreys Peak is one of the West’s most accessible high points, it is not without hazards and should be taken seriously by those who are in good physical condition and are prepared for the rigors of climbing a big western peak.
Those who adhere to these principles will be rewarded with a memorable day and mind-blowing views in a unique pocket of alpine terrain among the northern Arizona desert.