Conquer the Kalalau trail: one of America's most dangerous and beautiful hikes
With a reputation as one of America’s most dangerous hikes, the Kalalau Trail on the Nā Pali Coast of Kauai in Hawaii is also one of the country’s most beautiful—and an easy contender for many people’s bucket lists.
For a trail that stays within sight of the ocean, it’s also physically challenging, climbing 5,000 vertical feet in 11 miles along a rugged, undeveloped tropical coastline.
For those who are prepared and up for the challenge, the Kalalau Trail offers an unforgettable Hawaiian backpacking experience and a chance to camp on an undeveloped tropical beach.
Speaking from experience, it’s also a memorable place to get engaged. (More on that below.)
A journey through stunning landscapes
The Kalalau Trail travels from Hāʻena State Park near Ke’e Beach on the northwest part of Kauai to the Kalalau Valley, about midway down the Nā Pali Coast, which is the island’s northwest coast. The trail quickly gets off the beaten path and takes hikers through stunning landscapes of tropical forest, coastline, valleys, cliffs, bluffs, and waterfalls.
The 11-mile trail weaves through a series of five magnificent valleys before culminating at the memorable Kalalau Beach, where imposing fluted cliffs form an impassable barrier on land.
While the trail is graded and offers a good walking surface, it’s rarely level and presents a continuous physical challenge that takes hikers above towering sea cliffs and through enchanting, verdant tropical valleys. Hikers in good physical condition should plan on a day to hike it in each direction
The first 2 miles from Hāʻena State Park to Hanakāpīʻai Beach
From Hāʻena State Park, the trail climbs and descends 1,000 feet over 2 miles, leading hikers to Hanakāpīʻai Valley—a popular destination for day hikers. However, access to Hāʻena State Park requires reservations, which should be arranged beforehand (details on reservations and permits below).
Day hikers can also climb the Hanakāpīʻai Trail to Hanakāpīʻai Falls, which are 1.6 miles and nearly 1,200 feet of climbing above the Kalalau Trial. The Hawaiian Department of Land and Natural Resources discourages it for all but well-seasoned hikers.
Hanakāpīʻai Valley marks the endpoint if you don’t have a camping permit.
It’s worth nothing that high water in Hanakāpīʻai Stream can close the trail, and all stream crossings on the Kalalu Trail should be considered carefully. The mountains to the south and east are one of the wettest places on Earth, and rainfall can easily cause streams to become unpassable. Check with the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources before heading out.
The 9 miles from Hanakapi’ai to Kalalau Beach
Beyond Hanakapi'ai Beach, those with permits embark on the true challenge of the Kalalau Trail. The well-graded, easy-to-follow path continues for an additional 9 miles, climbing 4,400 feet, until reaching the cliffs that grace Kalalau Beach.
This extended section leads hikers through four more sweeping valleys, each offering the allure of spur hikes to explore and waterfalls to uncover.
Notably, around mile 7, adventurers encounter the infamous Crawler's Ledge—a nerve-wracking passage along a narrow rock shelf with significant exposure. A misstep here could lead to a perilous fall to the rocks and surf below. Take a walking stick or use trekking poles to help with balance and ensuring safe passage through this challenging segment.
Kalalau Trail history and culture
The Kalalau Trail holds a rich history intertwined with the ancient Hawaiian culture. Dating back centuries, the trail served as a lifeline for native Hawaiians. It connected coastal communities and gave access to important resources. It facilitated trade, communication, and cultural exchange among tribes, leaving behind traces of ancient settlements and sacred sites along its path.
Originally established as a footpath, the trail's significance expanded during the early 19th century when European explorers and missionaries arrived on Kauai. The newcomers recognized the trail's potential for facilitating trade and exploration along the Nā Pali Coast.
As interest in Kauai's natural beauty grew among outsiders, the Kalalau Trail began to attract adventurous visitors eager to see awe-inspiring landscapes. The Kalalau Trail remains a symbol of natural beauty and human perseverance, providing a window into Hawaii's ancient past while offering a thrilling adventure for modern-day explorers.
Kalalau Trail permits and fees
Before embarking on a hike on the Kalalau Trail, you’ve got some red tape to navigate. Camping permits are required to hike past Hanakāpīʻai Valley, whether or not you intend to camp, and day-use passes and reservations are required to visit Hāʻena State Park, Ke’e Beach, or hike to Hanakāpīʻai Beach or Hanakāpīʻai Waterfall.
Camping Permits
Camping permits for the Kalalau Trail are $35 per person per day for visitors and $25 for Hawaiian residents and available from the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources. Only 60 people are permitted on the trail at any one time, and you can only reserve 90 days in advance. If you plan to park, you’ll also need a day-use parking pass from Hāʻena State Park.
Day-use permits
Alternatively, you’ll need a day-use reservation and parking permit a from Hāʻena State Park to visit Ke’e Beach, hike the 4-mile round trip to Hanakāpīʻai Beach and back, or hike the 8-mile round trip to Hanakāpīʻai falls and back.
Parking permits for Hāʻena State Park must be reserved. There are three options that include: shuttle and entry pass ($35 for adults, $25 for kids 4-15), parking and entry pass ($10 per car plus $5 per person), and entry pass only for those who walk or bike into the park ($5).
If there are no reservations available, you cannot enter the park.
Kalalau Trail challenges that hikers should be aware of
Rain and weather: Parts of Kauai are some of the wettest places on Earth. Rain, rising streams, or floodwater could sweep hikers off their feet or block access to portions of the trail. Wet rocks and mud could become slippery, particularly at Crawler’s Ledge.
Physical challenge: While it’s a doable hike, it’s also easy to underestimate. I traveled to Hawaii from the Rocky Mountains where I feel fairly accomplished as a backpacker, mountain biker, and whitewater kayaker in the backcountry. I vastly underestimated the physical challenge of the Kalalau Trail and was pretty wiped out when we arrived at Kalalau Beach.
Rip currents and unpredictable waves: The waters of the rugged Napali Coast offer limited swimming, even in good conditions, and swimming is very strongly discouraged at Hanakapi’ai Beach due to dangerous rip currents and waves.
Crawler’s Ledge: At mile 7 the trail narrows onto a rock ledge with considerable exposure to the jagged rocks and surf below. For most of its roughly 100 feet of length, the ledge is about 3 feet wide, but for a very short stretch of about 5 feet it narrows into a mere 12-18 inches of uneven, sloping rock. It’s intimidating, and heavy packs loaded with camping gear make it tougher.
Conquering challenges and creating lifelong memories
While the Kalalau Trail poses a formidable physical challenge, it also holds the promise of unforgettable memories, as each step rewards new natural wonders. It’s a memorable experience to finish the hike and find yourself one of only a handful of people on an unspoiled tropical beach.
Some hikers have found the Kalalau Trail a place for unforgettable life moments, and I’m among them.
I’d been looking for an opportunity to propose to my girlfriend and knew hiking the Kalalau Trail might be an opportunity. I tethered the ring I’d had made inside my first aid kit and snuck a bottle of wine and two plastic cups into my backpack.
Clouds had settled in by the time we arrived at Kalalau Beach. We set up camp in some trees and made dinner, with me wondering if the right moment would present itself. We were both pretty tired, and the clouds cast a gloomy pall over the beach, so I put the idea of proposing out of mind, poured two glasses of wine, and suggested we sit on the beach.
While we sat, the sun fell below a crack on the western horizon, and the sky became a drape of crimson and pink while the beach lit up like it had been hit with a spotlight. The moment was perfect but caught me off guard. I was leaning on my pack, with her leaning on my chest, and the ring was inside the first-aid kit, inside the pack.
I reached behind me with one hand and after a minute fished out the first aid kit. I unzipped it, and was working to untie the knot of cord I’d tied around the ring—all while trying to keep my chest still so she wouldn’t know anything was going on, and praying the sunset would last.
As I untied the knot and mulled some words to match the magnificent moment she was overcome with the grandeur of it all—the crimson sky, sunlit beach, azure sea. She promptly stood, sprinted down the beach, and twirled in the surf—leaving me sitting by myself in the sand with the ring in my hand.
To shorten an awkward story, I caught up with her and blurted a flustered proposal, to which she smiled and said yes. Later than night in the tent, I was grateful when she asked if I’d like to try the words part of my proposal again. I got it right that time.
Embrace adventure on the Nā Pali Coast
For those seeking an adventure worthy of many people’s bucket lists, the Kalalau Trail beckons with an allure of danger and beauty. As you stand at Ke'e Beach, gazing at the vast expanse of the Nā Pali Coast, remember to pack not only your physical strength but also your sense of wonder and respect for the coastal wilderness that lies ahead.
Be prepared and embrace the challenge, for it is through overcoming the challenging miles that the magic of the Kalalau Trail reveals itself. So, prepare your backpack, secure your permit, and set forth on this unforgettable expedition—it's time to conquer the Kalalau Trail.
Quick tips for a successful Kalalau Trail adventure
Obtain a permit: A permit is required to hike the Kalalau Trail, which runs along the Na Pali Coast. Permits can be obtained through the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources.
Pack light: The hike is challenging, and you’ll need to carry everything you bring. Pack as lightly as possible to make the hike more enjoyable.
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear: Wear sturdy, closed-toe shoes and bring layers of clothing to protect against the sun, wind, and rain. (I know there are photos on this blog of my wife wearing sandals, but she developed very bad blisters and would not do it again.)
Bring plenty of water: The hike can be hot and strenuous, and it's important to stay hydrated. Bring at least two liters of water per person per day.
Follow leave-no-trace principles: The Nā Pali Coast is a sensitive environment. Be sure to follow leave-no-trace principles to protect the area and preserve it for future visitors.
Plan your trip carefully: The hike can be challenging and is not suitable for everyone. Make sure you’re physically fit and prepared, and let someone know your itinerary in case of an emergency.